SpiderBot Delta 3D Printer

Simplify3d successful settings

posted in Tips and tricks
Saturday, May 17 2014, 11:39 AM
Hej printers,
after some weeks with simplyfi3d i like to recommand it.
I designed several (simple) construction parts during the last weeks, and my time from scratch to final print is significantly reduced - due to more routine, but mostly due to simplify3d. It's now like: 1 or 2 hours of construction, switch on the printer, start simplify3d, import, set one or two options, pre-heat the printer (and sometimes check the bed leveling), start print. After printing time: detach from bed, sand surface, mount part... Great!

I use creo elements free for design, save as .stl, import into simplify3d. No more hazzle with netfabb for correcting bad surfaces, no more slicing errors i experienced with kisslicer. Of course it took a while to optimize the settings, but now i have a good setup wich needs only one or two modifications depending on the print object. One is switching the support off if not needed, the other is to swith the extrusion width from auto (wich is good for almost everything) to a fixed value of [nozzle diameter] - 0.1mm (So, for me, to 0.49), only needed for objects with a one perimeter outline.

Reason: Siplify3d leaves holes in the outline when set to "automatic", might be a rounding bug occuring when the wall thickness is the same as the nozzle diameter. The tip came from the simplify3d support (A few hours after mailing).

There is one more bug ehen setting the start points to "random", leads to crashing software when slicing. But the "optimize" option works perfectly.

For those who want to experiment, here are the FFF settings i use. I didn't experiment with layerwise changing temperatures or cooling within the object yet.


We do everything with "Tool 0"!
Extrusion Multiplier: 1,00 (This setting depends on the filament... I found, that the "steps per mm"-calibration, that you did
in the eeprom, is not the same for all filaments. My red filament does 4,8cm, the white does 4,0 with the same setting. So
what you have to do is watch to adjust the multiplier for each filament. What i do is to carefully watch the print at the beginning
and adjust the runtime extrusion multiplyer controller in the machine control panel to a value which provides perimeters
without any surplus material and still in full contact. Especially keep an eye on the center points of trianglic or sircular
perimeters, this is where a wrong adjustment cumulates...)

Extrusion width: Auto! ...Exception: 1 Perimeter-Objects, in that case [width] = [nozzle diameter] - 0.1mm
Edit: The "Auto"-Setting seems to squeeze out to much filament, therefor at points where perimeters meet in small triangles or circles a buckle grows from layer to layer until the print head crashes.
So please: Don't use "Auto", but use the [nozzle diameter] (or [n. d.] - 0.1 for single perimeter objects as mentioned above).

Retraction Distance: 5mm. Extra Restart Distance 0.00mm. Retraction vertical lift: 3.00 mm. Retraction Speed: should be quite slow, like 1600mm/min.

In "Advanced" you find the value for minimum travel for Retraction:
Must be set longer then the Wipe distance + extrusion width!
(The wipe distance is added to the travel, so when minimum travel < wipe distance you get retraction and jump whenever beginning a new loop)

Coast at End Distance: 2mm (A nice and unique feature wich reduces leakage and strands when jumping.)
Wipe Nozzle Distance: 2,00mm


10 Perimeter Shells, 20 Top und 20 Bottom Layers, depending on object and your expectations on strongness, weight, material consumption.

Outline direction: Inside-Out (Better for overhangs).
Print islands sequentially without optimization: selected. (Maybe deselect when many small islands ?
I have only two, and found that the jump from one island to the other is always from the same point when deselected, so
you get increasing blobs and unevenesses. We'll see if it gets better when the "Use random start points" - bug is processed )
Optimize start points for fastest printing speed ("Use random..." crashes software)
(Edit: Bug fixed in version 2.1.1! So i recommend to try that, as it avoids buckles growing from layer to layer)
First Layer: Height 150%, Speed: 25%. (Important to get a good adhesion)
Raft: none (with PEI Bed the adhesion is always perfect)
Skirt/Brim: 1 Layer, 5mm Offset, Outlines: 1 (At the very first moment when
printing, i mostly experienced the first mm's not to be adhesive to the bed, with
the skirt, this is carried out at the skirt and the object print perfectly starts from the very first mm)


Infill 40%, Outline Overlap 5%, minimum Infill lenght: 1mm, print every layer.


Depending on object, i found support only to be necessary with overhangs
of more then 60 degrees or more. I don't have much experience with the settings,
but i really love the manual editing feature...
I set:
Infill Percentage 30%, Horizontal Offset 0,3mm, Max. overhang angle 53%.


In the controller list is the "Bed" and the "Primary Extruder".

The Bed uses the temperature identifier T2, Wait for temperature controller to
stabilize... ist selected. I use only one Temperature setpoint: Layer 1 set to 115°.

The primary extruder uses the identifier T0, i use only one setpoint: Layer 1 set to 235°.


I removed all setpoints and setup the Fan and Chamber Heating options via scripts.
Speed overrides: Adjust printing speed for layers below 30sec down to 50%.
No Fan override settings.


Only %D-firmware and Allow zeroing of extrusion distances is selected.
All offsets set to 0,00mm


I use a script that controls the chamber heater. I switch it of when heating the bed, because i suffer from instable temperature values when cetral fan on. But i also use a script to preheat the bed and chamber BEFORE i start the script (see below). Here is the starting script:

G21 ; mm mode
G90 ; absolute mode
G28 ; home all axes
M198 ; Turn on Chamber Heater
M104 S170 T0 ; Preheat Extruder
M140 S100 ; Heat Bed
M190 ; Wait for Bed Target Temperature
M140 S115 ; Heat Bed further
M199 ; turn off Chamber Heater
M190 ; Wait for Bed Target Temperature
M198 ; turn on Chamber Heater
M104 S235 T0 ; Heat Extruder
M109 ; Wait for Extruder Target Temperature

Here is the ending script:
G28 ; Home all axis
M199; Turn off Chamber Heater
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 ; Turn on cooling fan
M84 ; disable motors


Default printing speed: 2000mm/min.
Outline underspeed: 80%.
Support Underspeed: 80%.
X/Y-Movement Speed: 4000mm/min.
Z-Movement-Speed: 3000mm/min.

I have no experience with bridging, so just th default settings.


Only selected options are
Non-manifold segments: heal
Minimum travel for retraction 5,00mm (see above).


The software option settings are like that:
"Save and restore application state" and "Check for Updates at startup" ist selected
Type: Delta robot, Build Volume: 180x180x230mm, Origin offset: X=90; Y=90; Z=0 mm, Homing direction: X=Center; Y=Center; Z=Max, Flip build table axis: Y selected.
"Z-axis is vertical" selected, everything else selected.


When using the machine control panel, always make sure you have "Tool 0" selected!
In the control panel, i installed a script to a custom command button i called "prepare print ABS". That script preheats the chamber and also the bed (the latter to 100°, when achieved you can check the leveling with the "sheet of paper method"). I start that script like 15min's before printing, so there is little waiting time then. Here is the script:
G21 ; mm mode
G90 ; absolute mode
G28 ; home all axes
M104 S150 T0 ; Preheat Extruder
M140 S105 ; Heat Bed
M198 ; turn on Chamber Heater
You can install such scripts in the "Firmware configuration" Window ->Macros.

So i hope this once helps another simplify3D user to shorten the learning time...

    Responses (24)
    • Accepted Answer

      Sunday, May 18 2014, 05:21 AM - #permalink
      Owh yes! :D

      Thank you very very much for sharing this. I have been running a slowed down Rostock settings variant (to good results). But you have taken it to the next level for sure. ;)

      I will give this a try as soon as I can.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Tuesday, June 17 2014, 05:55 PM - #permalink
      Hej Printers,

      just edited the settings: I found that the "auto"-setting for the extrusion width seems to squeeze out too much filament. So meanwhile i take for sure that it is much better to set to [nozzle width]-value.

      Happy printing,
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    • Accepted Answer

      Tuesday, June 17 2014, 09:33 PM - #permalink
      On the strength of your write up I purchased a copy, I have the Megatronics V3.0 rev 1. When I try to communicate with the printer through the machine control panel it comes back reporting framing errors detected by hardware. I've tried a short lead directly onto the PCB (just in case of noise), dropped the baud rate right down to 9600. The firmware configuration is for RepRap.

      Any pointers greatly received as I'm falling out with KISSlicer.


      EDIT: Rather than going down with the baud rate should have gone up. 250000 and it works fine. Time to setup with your settings.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Tuesday, June 17 2014, 11:28 PM - #permalink
      Actually, I have the same problem, with the Megatronics V2. I just use Simplify3D for slicing, not for printer control.

      Edit, just read your edit, great! Can you now control your printer?
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    • Accepted Answer

      Wednesday, June 18 2014, 04:08 PM - #permalink
      Hej printers,

      my setting is 250.000 as well, working fine.

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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, June 20 2014, 04:26 PM - #permalink
      Hej printers,

      there is a new version (2.1.1) of simplify3D to be downloaded at www.simplify3d.com/downloads
      (The support recommended it to me because i reportet the bug when slicing the fan duct.

      In that version, the "use random startpoints" crash is fixed, so ready to use it.

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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, June 20 2014, 04:35 PM - #permalink
      Nice! Thank you for the update. They seem to be a bit behind with the info on their "changelog" page. There was never any mention of 2.1
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    • Accepted Answer

      Monday, June 23 2014, 07:39 PM - #permalink
      Knut, thank you ever so much. Today, after some time of no printing (about a month, was doing some renovation) I am once again printing. Your settings seem to work very nicely, also printing directly from Simplify3D really shaves off some "moving around different applications" time.

      Much appreciated. :D

      Attached the .fff file. Use at your own risk. ;)
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, August 30 2014, 07:54 PM - #permalink
      After using Simplify 3D now for some months I must say I am very happy. I did however find one strange bug/problem that I want to warn others about.

      I have specified a delta printer with round print bed in the machine control settings but it seems that the visualisation does not match with the actual print size. So be aware you don't put something near the edge on your print platform in the software!!!!

      Attached a screenshot of a part I was printing (live preview tracking) and a photo on where it is on my build plate.

      It is possible to set the visual build plate smaller in S3D, however, it gets its data from the printer so updates back to the "correct" settings on reconnect/reboot.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Sunday, August 31 2014, 09:32 AM - #permalink
      Hej Caspar,

      never stumbled on that one, but i could simply reproduce it. I have a 25mm Diameter cap waiting for printing. Set the scale factor to 10 and it still fits into the building area, still leaving a few millimeters...

      Looks like they paint the diameter AROUND a Square of 180mm instead INTO it ...SQRT(18cm^2 + 18cm^2)=25,46cm...

      Might also be the reason why you can position the print head outside the platform manually?

      I'll report that one to simplify-support.

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    • Accepted Answer

      Tuesday, September 02 2014, 07:14 AM - #permalink
      S3D Support also replied to me. The indeed acknowledge this is a problem/bug. There is a workaround though. Here is their reaction:

      Thank you for contacting Simplify3D support. I'd be happy to assist you in setting up your Delta style printer's build volume. The software actually uses the X-Y of the largest possible square that will fit in the cylinder for the Delta style, meaning your observation was indeed correct.

      For 180 mm diameter circle, please set the X and Y to 127.27 mm. This is Diameter*cos(45 degrees). One of our forum users, JoeJ explains this extremely well in a post, available here: http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=787#p2780

      If the build volume was set to a different volume then your printer physically supports, that would lead to errors such as the one you mentioned with the print head attempting to print outside the building platform. Changing the build volume should remedy this from happening again.
      I put it 127,2 as diameter and 63,6 as offset for both X and Y. That does the trick (for now)! :D
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    • Accepted Answer

      Tuesday, September 02 2014, 09:08 AM - #permalink
      Great, thanks for publishing the workaround. So it won't take long until i get the same answer from simplify ;-)

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    • Accepted Answer

      Sunday, September 07 2014, 02:13 PM - #permalink
      Additionally I discovered you have to make sure to add these settings to the "Processes" also on the G-Code tab and make sure you either enable or disable automatic update of the machine definitions depending on your needs. Attached 2 updated .fff files for PLA and ABS printing of 0.3 mm high objects.

      Please note that my .fff files include additional gcode instructions for switching on the heater (ABS) or the Fan (PLA) etc.

      Owh and for those that don't know yet, there's an S3D update, v 2.1.2.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Monday, September 08 2014, 11:40 AM - #permalink
      Hej Caspar,

      you are right about the G-Code-Tab, but only in the right halve of it, as long as you have the "Update Machine Definition..." checked, as this would overwrite the machine settings.

      But in the left half i did not change the "G-Code-Offset" values. I guess, that these values would shift the positions away from what we have defined as the center point at the machine descriptions. Did you mean to change these values as well???

      Bye, Knut
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    • Accepted Answer

      Monday, September 08 2014, 07:38 PM - #permalink
      Hey Knut,

      I have it setup as attached, there are two places you can possible configure it. Initially even though I set the machine settings correct, they kept being overridden by my processes. Not anymore now! :)

      The overwrite mechanism is useful in case you have multiple different printers.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Monday, December 22 2014, 09:59 PM - #permalink
      For those using/following Simplify3D, 2.2 just came out. Besides a whole bunch of extra options for support and multiple extruder printing, they also allow the user to now specify the speed in mm/s (which makes more common sense) and also adjust the grid layout squares to the user desired sizes. By default it was this weird 14.235 per block, but I set it to 10 mm and the small density to 1 mm.

      Happy printing. :)
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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, January 02 2015, 06:36 PM - #permalink
      Thanks Casper for the hint to the new version. I just installed, looks somewhat improved, but not extremely... As Msquare wrote in another topic, kisslicer allows printing two skirts, one with each print head. I miss this on simplify, also in the latest version. That is a great pity, because i never get filament feed right from the beginning, so printing a skirt for me is an essential initialisation before printing - for both heads of course. Maybe i should consider a rollback to kisslicer?

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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, January 02 2015, 11:04 PM - #permalink
      Here is a challenge for you S3D fans - I want to omit the bottom outer perimeter. Or put another way, I want the bottom layer to be slightly smaller. I can not do that with the slicers I use; can 3Dslicer?

      Why ? - because I am printing gear wheels, Both Slic3r and Kisslicer produce good teeth from the STLs, but the bottom layer is squeezed so much to the bottom plate it gets a bigger extrusion. I do not want to use the Zoffset of kisslicer, which would raise the head (with compensating extrusion as the "bad roughness" setting does - I think) because I need good adhesion and squeezing agains the bed.

      So, if it omitted the outermost perimeter the teeth probably would tilt a very tiny amount inward on the bottom, but that is much better than I sit there with my Exacto knife to trim the slight overshoot on every single tooth (boring tedious work!)
      | M |
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, January 03 2015, 01:09 PM - #permalink
      Msquare I know the phenomena you describe, I have even seen it effect more then just the first layer. Usually only with ABS but it can happen also with PLA.

      Some ideas:

      One way to go is to print the buttom layer with a bigger nozzle width, this will make the slicer think you actually extruder "larger" then you really do, making it start less closer to the edge, if you understand what I mean.

      Another way, which seems the most logical way to do it is to tweak the "First Layer Settings", where you can tweak the width (basically xy) and the height to a certain percentage.

      If you see this problem at multiple layers, you could even go further and use different "processes" on different height levels in your prints. So basically you could totally tweak different print settings for the first 0.2, second 0.2, third 0.2 print heights (assuming 0.2 is your print height, change if needed).

      Have a look here to see that last setup described in more detail: http://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/different-settings-for-different-regions-of-a-model/

      So, omitting the outer layer is not really an option but you can reduce by a certain percentage the xy. I could slice something for you and it would work on the SpiderBot, which material/layer height would you like to try? We could also follow this up over email as otherwise this forum post might get a bit sidetracked...
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, January 03 2015, 08:20 PM - #permalink
      Thanks Casper. I do not have S3D. So we'll end this sidetrack here.I was just curious if S3D had contemplated that need.
      | M |
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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, January 09 2015, 10:29 AM - #permalink
      Another update, this time to 2.2.1. The Mini Kossel delta has been added as a base printer, nice as a beginning reference. Some other updates that seem relevant to me:

      Further optimization improvements for print sequences to reduce printing time
      If a process was previously applied to all models, it will retain this trait even as more models are added
      Several raft changes to improve separation and ensure proper placement
      Improved communication for printers running Repetier firmware
      Improved configuration assistant profiles for delta printers
      Updated user interface to disable some options during virtual previews
      Added pre-configured profiles for Airwolf HDL/HD/HDx, FlashForge Creator Pro, Velleman 8200/8400, Kossel Mini, and Bits for Bytes 3D Touch
      Fixed an issue where some manual support structures were not properly saving

      Not sure what the improved config assistant for deltas means, I will have a try with that.

      Full list: http://www.simplify3d.com/software/changelog/
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    • Accepted Answer

      Sunday, January 18 2015, 12:14 PM - #permalink
      Mmhh a setting I have found to be messing with my prints (after some trial and error) is the "Force retraction between layers" on the Advanced tab, it was switched on. Although technically you could say with correct retraction settings this should not be a problem, it was causing unnecessary blobs for me at the area where the head is suppose to go up 1 layer in one smooth go.

      This setting, normally is meant for printers that do not do "z-lift" when going to the next layer, but I have my slicer settings that it does. Also for a delta, z-lift is peanuts to do, compared to moving an entire print bed in certain xyz gantry printers. :-)

      If I find the time I'll take some pictures.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, May 20 2016, 01:41 PM - #permalink
      Hey thanks a lot for sharing this post... It's simply commendable
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    • Accepted Answer

      Monday, May 08 2017, 01:20 PM - #permalink
      thanks for sharing need to get more info aobut the printer
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