SpiderBot Delta 3D Printer

SpiderBot hot end cooler improvement

posted in Customisations
Saturday, March 15 2014, 04:57 PM
Inspired by "Spiderbot.eu 3D Printer v1.2 Fan Duct" in thingiverse. Better cooling for the head, minor cooling of the part and the hot bed.

Search for " SpiderBot hot end cooler improvement " in thingiverse, try and tell me. :) :) :) :) :)


amélioration du refroidissement de la tête "chaude" de la spiderbot v1.3. La conception initiale du :Spiderbot.eu 3D Printer v1.2 Fan Duct m'a posé qq problèmes avec les bras magnétiques, j'ai donc modifié et je le pense amélioré cette idée. meilleur refroidissement de la tête et minimisation des effets sur la pièce et sur la table chaude.

Recherchez: " SpiderBot hot end cooler improvement " chez thingiverse
Essayez et tenez moi au courant.
A quand une plateforme d'échange d'objets chez Spiderbot ????
:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
    Responses (13)
    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, March 15 2014, 05:09 PM - #permalink
      Nice work! :) :o

      I like the improved printability and shape of this new fan duct. I have some doubts when it comes to the plate connectors you are replacing. Is your print nozzle still as accurately placed as it was before?
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, March 15 2014, 05:32 PM - #permalink
      No problems with automated Z probing (I have the option!) minor modification about 0,1 mm. No issues so far on X and Y position.

      Try, enjoy (or not) and tell !
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    • Accepted Answer

      Sunday, March 16 2014, 08:20 PM - #permalink
      Nice looking design! I have moved to a completely different print head, print head mount, and fan duct (no longer stock v1.2), otherwise I would try this out right away. Will post the upgrades on my blog soon.

      I think you are better at 3d cad design than me- maybe you can clean up my other modifications too once published! :D
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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, March 21 2014, 04:19 PM - #permalink
      Hi I'm using Solidworks (10 years teaching on this software!)
      I would be glad to help you modeling your improvements (though I'm not an artist, just not too bad with advanced mechanical forms).

      Still working on the improved fan duct (third version), not yet proud of the result !;) ;)

      I would like to command the fan (useles when the hot end is cold) ON/OFF or 0%->100% ideas??:( :(

      Greetings from France (Angers)
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    • Accepted Answer

      Friday, March 21 2014, 05:45 PM - #permalink
      Both Cura and Kisslicer can control a fan attached to the Megatronics 2.0 board. Thru the slicer, I disable the fan for first layer, and then ramp it up from 35% to 100% only when print time/layer is less than a threshold, or when printing bridges. I would really like something that can cool PLA just as it exits the nozzle very rapidly- I find it almost impossible to print overhangs and bridges cleanly using PLA. I was thinking of re-using the centrifugal fan, with a cover over the end with three 1/2 inch holes splitting the air flow in thirds, into which clear PVC tubes would be inserted. These three tubes would direct air to just past the nozzle onto the print surface to cool the PLA as it extrudes.

      Something like this: Air Cooling System for prints . We would need a mount and cover for the fan, and a mount underneath the extruder to hold the tubes in place to direct the air. I think adding the LED's would be cool too.

      Are you up for the challenge? I can tell you how to wire the Megatronics and the slicer settings needed to control the fan.

      I am looking at using 3/8" (9.525mm) OD vinyl tube, which does not quit fit the opening face of the duct when three are staggered.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, March 22 2014, 09:41 AM - #permalink
      Ready for it! :D :D :D :D :D
      Don't you think you should need two fans? One to cool the hot end , another one to "freeze " the part?

      I don't think tubing is a good idea : little fans or blowers are not designed to create pressured air , if your tubes are too small and/or to long the airflow will surely dramatically decrease because of friction pressure loss (need experiment).

      I think parts (modified and redesigned for Spiderbot) like:
      or: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:270283 (two fans??)

      may be more efficient!
      waiting for your ideas.

      Greetings from France (Angers)
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, March 22 2014, 07:15 PM - #permalink
      In v1.4 the two fan control ports are connected to the Air Flow Fan at the top and the Heater through a relay.

      I like the idea of being able to switch the extrusion head fan on and off (especially when my printer is just switched on, heating the bed or something). However I don't think I have any ports left?
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, March 22 2014, 10:19 PM - #permalink
      Yes, two fans I think is a must. You don't want to disable cooling of the extruder itself, or you risk a jam. To cool the extruder, I now have a 25mm boxer fan (very small) permanently wired in to cool the extruder, so it is always on once you turn on the power. I use this design Aluhotend Fan Duct, as I have switched out the stock Spiderbot extruder for an Aluhotend v5 Aluhotendwith a 0.3mm nozzle. Works great with the small 25mm fan.

      The fan that comes with Spiderbot normally used to cool the extruder, being a centrifugal blower type, has much higher backpressure than a boxer fan. It is quite capable of pushing air thru tubes (or a donut) if not too small. I designed an printed off a prototype using three 9.525mm tubes last night, and it is definitely pushing a decent amount of air out the three tube ends. If this is hooked up to the Megatronics v2 board as one of the PWM controlled fans, we can turn the fan off for the first layer, and control the flow of air from 0% to 100% thru slicer settings in Cura or Kisslicer dependent on the time to print each layer. I have looked at and printed off one design of the 'donut' type that looks promising, but the fan I think will get in the way of the arms on the Spiderbot. Extruder Cooling Duct that Works!. Maybe this design could be modifed without tubes with the fan repositioned vertically to keep it out of the way? I think the blower fan is best used for cooling the extruded plastic, rather than cooling the extruder itself.

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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, April 19 2014, 10:12 AM - #permalink
      Hi All!
      New idea ,inspired by :
      and/or computer stuff for pump and heat exchanger.

      My central fan is always 30% when heating, no need to control it, it could always on through rheobus,
      hot end water cooling. Then I can control blower to freeze material (while doing bridges).

      What do you think about it??

      Thanks for your answers.

      Benoit From France (Angers)
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, April 19 2014, 03:38 PM - #permalink
      I like it, but maybe not necessary. think a cheap small permanently wired fan would work for cooling the hotend to simplify. I'm always nervous of water around electronics. I am using this: hotend cooler. No jams so far. The fan is cheap on eBay- I paid 2.50 USD including shipping.

      The blower fan can then be wired to the first fan port on the megatronics, and turned off for first layer, and turned on to 100% for bridges, and somewhere in between for everything else under Kisslicer software control.

      This design would not work for anyone purchasing a chamber heater, as that already uses both megatronics fan ports. But if a person is interested in the chamber heater, its to print ABS. ABS does not need nearly as much cooling of the print to print good overhangs, so this mod would be less usable anyways
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    • Accepted Answer

      Wednesday, July 23 2014, 01:59 PM - #permalink
      Are you guys still working on this ?
      It would be great to have a controlled cooler fan when printing PLA . I use on of these on my Huxley http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64769 and it makes a big difference, for the spiderbot I just have the door open and park a 120mm fan in it. I thought of cutting an appropriate size hold in the back of the enclosure at about 1/3 height of the chamber and fitting one permanently but haven't brought myself to do it yet.
      I'm about to print the new spiderbot designed extruder cooler - was wondering if you could maybe force the flow down over the extruded filament by having a clip on door to block the side exit and some kind of lower donut shroud to direct it onto the nozzle exit ?

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    • Accepted Answer

      Thursday, July 24 2014, 12:46 PM - #permalink
      Andrew, you do not have the Air Flow Fan at the top of your printer? That would do about the same as your 120 mm fan.

      The updated air flaw extruder design improves the curling problem quite a bit.

      Due to the additional lack of switches, to my knowledge it is currently not possible to also switch the extruder fan on/off. Although, as I mentioned I would like that. :) Maybe megatronics V4.0?
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    • Accepted Answer

      Thursday, July 24 2014, 02:39 PM - #permalink
      No I don't have that top fan. When printing with ABS I have a Cirrus 60 heater/fan mounted on the top plate which recirculates and heats air inside the enclosure. I also have a floating plate of high density PU foam around the hot end umbilical as it passes through the top plate, and same thing around the top of each upright as it passes through the top plate. Also plan to add some kind of draught exclusion pad around the enclosure door. Idea is to keep as much hot air as possible inside the enclosure. I also have the heater plate insulated around the bottom side, somewhat similar to yourself, which also stops air flow around the heater plate.

      When I switch to PLA (which to be honest I usually print on a different tool) I open up all the vents at the top of the enclosure, open the front panel and blow room temp air into the chamber. I did once think of putting a Peltier cooling fan to blow cold air on the printing surface but I doubt that blowing air at say 5C rather than 20C would really change that much as you are cooling from 200C and it is probably the first 50C drop that does much of the "freezing".

      Other mod I toyed with doing is to put a large low rpm in the centre hole of the bottom plate and take off the (noisy) little Pololu cooling fan. Rational being that cooling might be more effective by pushing cool air into the lower chamber rather than recirculating warm air - although I'm sure that insulating the heated bed cooled the lower chamber down significantly. Hard to tell because I forgot to check the temperature before I insulated it and I'm not pulling all the insulation off just to test :)

      My enclosure heater / recirculating fan is driven by only 1 Megatronic output (fan is always on and I switch the heater through an SSR) so I do have a spare output to drive a cooling fan. The top plate is already getting a bit crowded so it makes more sense to me to have the fan mounted on the enclosure even though aesthetically that might be worse. I could of course put a smaller fan up there although a 120mm fan can shift 2 to 3x the volume an 80mm fan can.
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