SpiderBot Delta 3D Printer

Water Cooled Triple Headed Monster

posted in Customisations
Tuesday, June 24 2014, 11:25 PM
Hi all, so after some frustration with my v1.2 SpiderBot (http://www.spiderbot.eu/my-forum-profile/downgrade-v1-2-to-v1-1.html) I have swapped out lots of the OEM parts for my own versions. I have dual extrusion working on my RoStockMAX and this is basically the same parts. I have only done single head printing so far on the spiderbot but will soon set it up for 2 and 3 heads.

It is meant to be pretty 'simple' (if not time consuming) to make so long as you have a lathe to make the hot ends. I have only done a few prints so far but the arms haven't fallen off yet:) It does seem that SpiderBot has acknowledged that their magnetic ball ends have had holding issues since the new ones are stronger (http://www.spiderbot.eu/blog/what-s-new-in-version-1-5-0.html).


Carriage adapters
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spiderbot-ball-end-carriage-adapter

Water Block:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/triple-water-block

Hot Ends:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mikes-hot-end-v2-5

I'll leave the water pump etc to your imagination.

Also some other 'accessories' that may be helpful.
NEMA23 Direct Drive Extruder
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nema2 ... e-extruder

Top Spool Holders
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/delta ... ool-holder

I made my arms as described here:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2165&hilit=traxxas
I went with rods of length 235mm and found a radius of 126.5mm works well.

I do like the main structure of the SpiderBot its rigidity seems to result in smoother prints than my RoStockMAX. Its just the arms, carriage, hot end, and extruder that I swapped;)

Mike
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    Responses (3)
    • Accepted Answer

      Thursday, June 26 2014, 04:46 PM - #permalink
      Nice job Mike! I have a Spiderbot v1.2 as well, but have stayed with the magnetic ball ends. Have had no real issues with that unless you set jerk in eeprom to 40mm/s or higher- quick direction changes at that speed are too much for the magnets to hold. I have however, just like you, replaced the hot end, the extruder, and the filament spool holder, and have a new hot end cooling design.... not much left except the frame :D

      I think there is still too much slop in the vertical arm sliders in v1.1, v1.2. I notice in v1.5 there is a new Misumi design that grips the sides of the rails that looks nice.....
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    • Accepted Answer

      Thursday, June 26 2014, 09:00 PM - #permalink
      Thanks Tek Guy,

      I had some success with the magnetic arms but if there was any blip that it catches on they would pull apart. I may have damaged the ends of them early on which probably adds to the problems. I agree about the sliders they are pretty good but the new ones look better (similar to the sliders OpenBeam is using). The hot end worked for me for all the plastics other than PLA and PETT but like the extruder wasn't very accessible for jams. The frame is good though; much more rigid than my melamine framed printer, once tuned it doesn't seem to move at all.
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    • Accepted Answer

      Saturday, June 28 2014, 11:16 AM - #permalink
      I had a few fall offs, but they were all due to too much ABS on certain points of the object. The print head slammed into it. It could be solved by better settings like a reduced feedrate and more coasting (simplify3D only).
      Once i had warping causing the object to rise up at one corner, again the head slammed into it and came of.

      Weeks ago i watched the rods not to slide on the balls but to bend, which at least will have weakened the connection and reduced the positioning precision, but that could easyly be solved by using a tiny bit of wheel bearing greese.

      So for me, no need to reconstruct the whole thing, i really like the "No bearing play"-approach of the magnetic rods.

      Still, i will be happy to receive the upgraded rods.

      Bye,
      Knut
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